Holidays in Houston
J
For the most part, our first stop in Texas was a family affair.
We were keen to spend our first Christmas away from home with some friendly faces. Phil's Uncle and Aunty and their three kids live in Houston's leafy suburbs, and were kind enough to host us for the holiday season (thanks again guys)! The week was filled with make-believe with the kids, delicious Christmas food and increasingly competitive board games. I couldn't have asked for a nicer way to spend Christmas while travelling.
When we weren't in the hot tub, playing dress-up or competing in table tennis tournaments, we did manage to explore some of Houston.
At first, I wasn't sure what to think - Houston isn't like other cities we've been to so far. There isn't a "town centre" as such - no bustling clusters of shops, restaurants and cafes.
In fact, when we got to Main Street, the supposed hub of the downtown area, I was convinced we were in the wrong place.
"But where is everything?" I asked Phil, as we ambled down the near-deserted streets, filled with non-descript office buildings and the occasional pharmacy. The temperature had dropped from it's previous balmy highs, and a curiously chilly wind echoed our every step.
It took me a while to realise that the key to understanding Houston is in understanding it's layout. No, there isn't a discernible centre where everything is. Instead, attractions and sights are spread out, cafes and restaurants clustering together in diverse neighbourhoods like Mid-town or Montrose. Trust me, there is plenty to do in Houston - you just need to know where to look. And most of the time, this is not on the quiet, echoing streets.
First, we headed to the sky. The Chase Tower climbs a staggering sixty stories into the sky, offering some pretty amazing views out across Houston. From up here, it's easier to understand Houston's shape and size - skyscrapers huddle like penguins in the centre of the city, and beyond that, an enormous freeway arches dramatically around, fencing everything in. Flat neighbourhoods sprawl out in the distance. Having lived in a tiny Surrey town, it's easy to underestimate the sizes of things here in the US. If in doubt, just assume it's MASSIVE.
To counteract the dizzying altitude, we headed underground. Underneath the downtown area of Houston is a complex mesh of tunnels, containing an interesting mix of restaurants and shops and connecting a number of towering business buildings. It's a strange feeling to enter a sterile-looking reception, with it's glistening parquet floors and single plant in the corner, before asking the bored-looking receptionist, "so...is there a tunnel in here we can use?"
When it was time for a sit down, a local friend recommended the Flying Saucer. Entering the bar, it's not difficult to see how it got its name: hundreds of saucers decorate the walls, commemorating each person who has managed to sample all 200 beers on offer here. We had two. It's a start!
In fact, in Houston they do eating and drinking exceptionally well. This is the home of Tex-Mex, supremely spicy and succulent cuisine that bypasses indulgence and goes straight to glorious gluttony. From doughy kolaches filled with spicy beef and jalapenos to monster patties at Smashburger, and from frozen yoghurt at Tutti Frutti to chargrilled fajitas at local favourite Lupes, you dine like a king here.
When you're ready to explore a bit further afield, there's a range of unique bits and bobs. A walk through the aquarium is a fun afternoon, and they even have rare white tigers, prowling and roaring and hunting for meat. A number of museums are perfect for getting your brain going, and the Space Center offers a fascinating insight not only into the history of space travel but the realities of living on the International Space Station (did you know astronauts have to exercise for two hours everyday to prevent osteoperosis?) When it comes to fun activities, Houston has no problem.
After treading the main tourist hotspots, we were keen to get off the beaten track. We were told about Brazos Park, a vast, flat swamp when alligators lie on the banks, just feet from where you stand. It was a surprisingly atmospheric and almost haunted place, it's deserted marshes stretching out as far as the eye can see, punctuated by pockets of murky water. While we didn't see any alligators - far too cold - we stretched our legs by walking for an hour around the mysterious bogs, scanning tangled reeds for a scaly back or pointed tail.
On one of our last days in Houston, we headed to Discovery Green, a patch of lush green in the centre of an urban landscape. It might have been all of the Christmas food, it might have been the week spent in luxury at Phil's family's house, or maybe even the fact that after three weeks we're starting to settle into our adventure - but we felt immensely peaceful here. Stark, cold sunlight illuminated skaters on the rink, casting the lake and surrounding wildlife into dappled shadow. On the outskirts of the park we discovered Los Trompos - a Mexican art installation featuring a collection of colourful spinning tops. You can climb them and spin around - as if we needed another excuse to act like big kids.
After a week of eating, playing and relaxing, I'm ready to move on. Right now, we're on the Greyhound to Dallas to spend NYE with some of Phil's friends. But first, I need some shut-eye. Dress-up takes it's toll!
