Colorado - A Winter Wonderland
One of the main reasons we chose the USA as the first stop on our round the world trip was its diversity. Its ever-changing landscapes, spectrum of cultures and varying climates mean that it often feels more like a number of destinations rolled into one rather than a single country.
And upon leaving Dallas for Colorado last week, we discovered what is surely one of America's starkest contrasts. After the vast, flat plains and hazy - albeit intermittent - warmth of Texas, the rugged snowy mountains of Breckenridge lay waiting for us, just a two hour flight away.
We flew into Denver. The change of location became immediately evident not just in the sharp drop in temperature, but in the dizzingly thin air quality. We'd been warned about altitude sickness - the way the steep elevation of the mountains can make you feel dizzy and nauseous. So although it wasn't a surprise, it was an adjustment nonetheless. We downed water in questionable quantities to ward it off, but there's not much else you can do but cross your fingers that you're not too sensitive to it.
We were staying with Abbie's family in their holiday home in Breckenridge. After the flight we poured ourselves sleepily into the back of the Colorado Mountain Express, which took us deep into the belly of the mountains we'd marvelled breathlessly at from the aeroplane windows.
I've always had a soft spot for magical, wintery landscapes. Sure, everyone loves the beach. But there's just something about
snow.
As we left slushy highways behind for winding mountain paths, towering white giants rose to greet us, studded with frost-gilded firs like armies of soldiers marching down the hillsides. It's a tricksy and intoxicating view. One moment, the sparkling white ground spills out for miles, like a bed of frothy mallow. The next, it rears up into hulking piles, and you crane your neck and steam the glass trying to scale its peak with your eyes.
Every consequent glimpse of Colorado confirmed my original judgement. This place is a winter wonderland. The snow out here puts any rare white christmas we've ever had in the UK to shame - thick, powdery pillows of it grace every available inch of land. When the sun catches it, the floor catches fire like a sea of diamonds, blindingly bright and sparkling. The effect is magnified by an immense quiet, like a year-round Christmas Eve hush. Nobody wants to break the spell. This place is a quiet, eerily beautiful country-scape, the kind of world where a Hans Christian Andersen fairytale might unfurl.
Despite my adoration for snow, I'm not a skier. It's not any kind of conscious choice, I've just never been on a ski trip. Breckenridge is a renowned ski resort, but as we were only there for a few days I decided against forking out for lessons in favour of finding out what else makes this Colorado town so special.
This decision took me on a three hour hike through Boreas Pass - which defines the phrase "peace and quiet". Snow reaches your shoulders and dramatic mountain views take you by surprise, while dogs bound gleefully through the wilderness and cross country skiers bid you good morning. It's a world away from the chaos of New York and the clone-like strip malls that punctuate Texas.
After a few days, any initial hints of altitude sickness were defeated and I started to feel at one with my new surroundings. Our accommodation was perched like a bird's nest in the mountainside, offering us a kaleidoscope of mountain views to wake up to everyday. One morning, barely stirring, I glimpsed soft, blurry shapes brushing the window.
"It's snowing," I whispered to Phil from the cosy comfort of the lodge, all of the forgotten magic and excitement that real winter brings with it rushing back. The lodge itself feels like an authentic wood cabin - the interiors are warm wood, and roaring fires warm the iciest of toes. There's nothing quite like brewing a steaming cup of coffee in the morning and gazing out at the snow-capped mountains (The condo is available to rent - you can check it out
). Yep, I thought to myself, as I did exactly that; this is my kind of place.
That opinion was compounded by the day we went dog sledding. There's nothing to have you feeling like a living, breathing part of the wilderness quite like balancing on the back of a rickety wooden sled as eight huskies pull you through undisturbed snow. The dogs themselves were beautiful and majestic looking, but soft, too - they wagged their tails and warmed us up by licking our faces before we hopped on for a hilarious, adrenaline-fuelled journey. We whipped through hills and valleys, ploughing a deep path through the snow, which was quickly filled again five minutes later. There's something not only exhilarating about dog sledding - two crashes from the sled and my bruised arm can testify to that - but something remarkably peaceful too. The only sounds we heard were the encouraging whistles from our guide, Charlie, the contented barks from the huskies, and the occasional haunting howl from somewhere in the falling dark.
Every time I fell into the snow, laughing and panting, the ice would sting my face and I'd claw myself out with all my strength. "This is proper wilderness," I thought to myself, clinging once again to the sled. "I wouldn't last long alone out here." The thought was both terrifying and humbling. For all it's beauty, Colorado is a wilder and less forgiving place than I've ever known.
So sometimes it's a relief to head back to civilisation. The town of Breckenridge is quaint and compact, but colourful and throbbing with life. The bars and boutiques are all old houses, and golden lights strung from lamp to lamp lend it an eternally festive feel. It's the perfect place to warm up numb fingers with a hot chocolate and perhaps indulge in a crepe or cookie. There's definitely no shortage of options.
Eventually, it was time to leave Colorado behind. I'm now on the flight to Chicago, the rocky mountains have just disappeared from view, and I've just about thawed out (although perhaps there's no point. The temperatures in Chicago look set to rival Breckenridge). We're staying with my friend Hannah in Milwaukee for a few days. It's another one of those times when I know basically nothing about our next destination (apart from the fact that we need to drink beer and eat cheese curds). It's one of my favourite feelings, but I'd love to know your recommendations. If you've ever been to Milwaukee or Chicago, let me know!
